Ramadan
Coming to a place with a substantial Muslim population, such as the coast here in Kenya, during Ramadan is always interesting. It is a time of a different culture to be certain.
I experienced it once before, in Tunisia. I remember all the food shops being closed in the afternoon--who is going to eat?--and then the whole place coming to life after sundown. I also remember how I found out it was Ramadan, stuffing a banana in my face in a busy bus station and then noticing everyone staring at me a little maliciously, and remembering something in my Lonely Planet guide about this holiday where people don't eat from dawn to dusk....oops.
Anyhow, knowing Muslims here in Kenya, I've tried a couple of days now to fast, with mixed results. Really, I have been successful, I've fasted very well between breakfast and lunch, although that period until dinner is difficult, I like a little snack here and there. And in my idea of fasting there are exclusions, in particular candy and water. Now I'm considering a method of fasting I've pioneered which I call mental fasting (meaning I've thought about it, which is still good, right?).
Really, though, as there are Muslims as part of the household I stay with in Mombasa, there isn't any real meal during the day. If you want to eat, you are on your own to scrounge up food. But the huge meal after sundown is quite a nice situation, for it's expected to be delicious enough to satisfy those who are really hungry from a day of fasting. Or for those who didn't fast but still have quite an appetite.
It's just not that nice to take your big lunch into a room with fasting people and eat it there. That is a little uncouth. Even for me.